From Gyros to Bougatsa: Eating Our Way Across Heraklion

Heraklion or Iraklion? Why the Two Spellings

You’ll see the city spelled Heraklion and Iraklion—both are correct. The Greek name, Ηράκλειο, was historically transliterated as Heraklion, while modern phonetic spelling drops the “H,” producing Iraklion. Locals use both forms, and the pronunciation is essentially the same.

Heraklion is the capital of Crete and the island’s largest port city, set along Crete’s northern coast between the Aegean Sea and the inland mountains. The city’s history stretches back to the Minoans, whose legendary Palace of Knossos, just a few miles south, served as the ceremonial and political center of Europe’s earliest advanced civilization. This sprawling, maze-like complex—likely the inspiration for the myth of the Labyrinth and the Minotaur—was excavated and partially reconstructed by Sir Arthur Evans in the early 1900s, a controversial approach that employed modern materials and imaginative interpretations, yet still offers a compelling window into the Bronze Age world.

Over the centuries, Heraklion has been shaped by Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman rule, reflected in landmarks such as the Koules Fortress, the Venetian Loggia, and the lively Morosini Fountain in Lion Square. Today, visitors come for its excellent museums—especially the Heraklion Archaeological Museum—its bustling markets, waterfront promenades, and deep ties to Crete’s cultural and mythological heritage.

Port Overview – A Late Arrival & Easy Access to Town

The Volendam didn’t arrive until noon, giving us a relaxed morning onboard before heading ashore. The ship moors alongside a large open dock with two structures housing security and a duty-free shop. You can’t walk out of the port, but a free shuttle takes you about half a mile to the cruise terminal, which has only a few rental counters and not much else.   There is an interactive map at the bottom of this post, along with the route we walked on our food tour

The Heraklion cruise terminal area, where shuttles transport passengers from the pier into town

Our all-aboard time was 7:30 PM.

We booked our food tour through Viator HERE, and the company website is HERE—though the links may not always work. The most reliable way to reach them is to contact Marina via WhatsApp at +30 690 888 4970.

Starting the Tour – A Modified Meeting Point and a Small Group

The tour normally begins at Saint Minas Holy Cathedral, about 1.2 miles from the shuttle drop-off, but because everyone in our small group came directly from the ship, the meeting point was shifted to Marina Café at the Venetian Harbor.

After we got off the shuttle bus, we followed the waterfront, passing the taxi stand, HoHo bus stops, and the port exit into the city, until we arrived at the Marina Café about 1/2 mile away. Marina—our guide—met us promptly at 1:00 PM. With only five guests, the experience felt relaxed and personal.

As we headed inland, Marina shared the history of Heraklion and stories from Cretan mythology, including Zeus’s secret upbringing—protected by the Kuretes and nourished by the goat Amalthea.

Before our first food stop, we stepped inside the Venetian Loggia, a graceful 17th-century civic hall now serving as Heraklion’s Town Hall. Its carved arches and cool stone interior offered a brief but welcome pause.

STOP 1 – Hovoli (Traditional Gyros with a Cretan Twist)

Hovoli is a popular local spot for quick, fresh Greek comfort food. Marina ordered our choice of pork or chicken gyros wrapped in warm pita bread, filled with:

• tomatoes
• onions
• tzatziki
• French fries tucked inside the pita

In Greece, French fries inside the gyro are traditional, adding warmth and texture. In the U.S., they’re usually served on the side, so this is oftem a surprise to those unfamiliar with traditional Greek gyros. We enjoyed our gyros and continued deeper into town.

Walking Through Heraklion’s Historic Core

After leaving Hovoli, we made our way through quiet backstreets—lanes lined with family bakeries, corner markets, and balconies overflowing with bougainvillea. We passed near the Saint Minas Cathedral district, catching glimpses of its enormous dome above the rooftops.

Closer to the city center, the streets grew busier. Shops selling spices, olive oil, pastries, and fresh bread filled the air with the aromas of cinnamon, oregano, and grilling meat. We skirted Lion Square, one of the busiest areas in town, and continued past the Ottoman Sebil, an elegant 18th-century fountain once used by travelers.

STOP 2 – Arismari & Varsamo (A Full Cretan Meze Experience)

Arismari & Varsamo is a warm, taverna-style restaurant known for hearty Cretan dishes served in generous portions. Here we enjoyed a wide selection of meze, along with a choice of red wine or beer:

• Stuffed Grape Leaves
• Zucchini Balls (Kolokithokeftedes)
• Eggplant Rolls
• Lamb Meat Pie
• Dakos (barley rusk with tomato and cheese)
• Greek Salad
• Chocolate Cake with Ice Cream
• Halva
• Fresh Watermelon

We also tried raki (tsikoudia), Crete’s grape-based spirit traditionally offered as a gesture of hospitality.

After this feast, we continued through another pleasant stretch of Old Town, following quiet side streets lined with small shops, cafés, and apartments decorated with potted plants.

STOP 3 – Phyllo Sophies (Classic Bougatsa for Dessert)

Phyllo Sophies is a modern café-bakery near Morosini Fountain, popular for its handmade phyllo pastries. Here we enjoyed warm, freshly made bougatsa—crisp phyllo filled with creamy semolina custard and dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon.

Our guide, Marina, gave us a great tour

Post-Tour Wandering & Souvenirs

After dessert, we browsed shops for olives, olive oil, and keychains—finding all three. Back at the terminal, we caught a shuttle to the ship, passed through security, and had a quick look through the duty-free shop before returning on board.

Lido Fair

Back onboard, the evening featured the Lido Fair, a Grand and Legendary Cruise tradition. The Lido Deck transforms into a carnival-style game area where guests play for free to earn tickets. The more tickets you win, the better your chances during the prize drawings that follow—everything from logo items to wine and even Pinnacle Grill dinners.

Evening Entertainment – Charley Blue on the World Stage

At 9:00 pm, we headed to the World Stage for a performance by Charley Blue—a dynamic violinist (Charley is her name; Blue is the name of her violin). A finalist on The Voice UK, she blends classical technique with modern pop in a high-energy, engaging style.

Backed by Justin (keyboard), Fabian (drums), and David (guitar), she performed a lively mix of classics and contemporary hits, including:

• Roll Over Beethoven
• Stand By Me
• Summer of ’69
• Shape of You (loop pedal)
• Feeling Good
• Sweet Home Alabama
• At Last
• Uptown Funk

Her finale—Bach transitioning into Hey Jude—was clever, unexpected, and a crowd favorite.

Click on the map point for more information