Portofino, Italy – Tendering into the Italian Riviera

After a relaxing day at sea, we arrived off the coast of Portofino, Italy, for our first of three consecutive Italian ports—and our first tender port of the cruise.

A Little About Portofino

22 Oct 2025

Tucked along the Italian Riviera in Liguria, Portofino is a charming little harbor village wrapped around a crescent bay, with green hills rising behind it. Once called Portus Delphini, or “Port of the Dolphin” in Roman days, it grew from a humble fishing spot into a dazzling retreat by the early 20th century, drawing in aristocrats, artists, and film stars. Now, it’s one of Italy’s most picture-perfect places, with its colorful pastel buildings, stylish shops, and stunning coastal paths. People flock here to wander the waterfront, take in the views from Castello Brown, or enjoy local dishes like trofie al pesto, fresh focaccia, seafood, and a glass of zesty limoncello.

Early Morning Arrival

Around 6:00 AM, the lights of Portofino twinkled on the horizon. Sunrise wouldn’t arrive until a little before 8 AM, so tender boats were already in the water before dawn, ferrying equipment ashore in preparation for the day. By 8 AM, the local authorities cleared the ship, and guests soon began making their way ashore.

The view of Portofino from our anchorage. The town was mostly hidden.

Holland America used two tender platforms this morning, forward and aft, to keep things moving efficiently. A new policy on this cruise prevented guests from returning on the tenders before 11 AM, improving turnaround time since they didn’t have to spend time loading passengers ashore or waiting for them to reboard the ship.

Clouds covered the sky as rain began around 9 AM, sometimes falling fairly hard, just as the forecast predicted. By late morning, skies gradually began to clear around 11 AM.

Heading Ashore

Leaving our room shortly after noon, we joined the tender line. The boarding process was smooth, with only a slight motion between the tender and the ship. After about fifteen minutes, we were on our way and eventually stepped ashore just after 1 PM.

The tender landing and security tent

Portofino is small—its heart is the Piazza Martiri dell’Olivetta, ringed by pastel buildings and upscale shops. We browsed boutiques including Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Missoni, as well as smaller local stores selling Italian leather and ceramics.

I stopped at an ATM operated by BPER Banca to get some euros. The exchange rate was quite reasonable—$1.17 USD per euro, compared to the official rate of $1.16, and far better than the $1.27 the ship was charging. When using an ATM abroad, always choose to “proceed in euros” rather than accept a dollar conversion—the latter inflates the rate unnecessarily.

Next to the ATM, we discovered Panificio, a small bakery-grocery hybrid offering limoncello, snacks, and souvenirs. We picked up a bottle of limoncello and some chocolate-laced meringues to take back to the ship.

Exploring Town

Continuing through town, we passed the bus turnaround in Piazza della Libertà for route 782. This route runs between Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure, about three miles away.

Buying Bus Tickets in Portofino: At the bus stop, there are two ticket machines side by side. The white contactless kiosk lets you pay the €5 fare for Line 782 by simply tapping your credit card or phone—no paper ticket is issued, and inspectors can verify your payment electronically using the last four digits of your card. The blue AMT machine accepts cash and prints a paper ticket for one-way travel to destinations like Paraggi or Santa Margherita Ligure. If you use the paper ticket, be sure to validate it in the small yellow machine when boarding the bus.   You can also buy tickets at Tobacco shops or online with certain apps.

Nearby was a tiny pharmacy, so compact that only one customer was allowed inside at a time.

We walked uphill to the Chiesa di San Martino, a beautiful 12th-century Romanesque church built of alternating gray and yellow stone. Stepping inside, we admired marble altars, gilded trim, and frescoes of local saints. Afterward, signs for the “Walk of the Kisses” caught our attention. We later learned that this sign points to the starting point of the Walk of Kisses, which winds through olive groves toward Paraggi. This scenic path is named for a romantic legend that couples will share a kiss under each archway. Descending back to the main piazza, we browsed more shops for T-shirts and keychains, then stopped for lunch in the early afternoon.

We chose Bar Mariuccia, a casual spot with covered tables next to the Piazza Martiri dell’Olivetta. We shared a delicious prosciutto pizza, a Coke Zero, and a glass of Chianti. The bill came to €40, which we paid inside at the bar before leaving.

The Walk to San Giorgio

With some time before the final tender, we made our way up the narrow path toward the Chiesa di San Giorgio, the iconic church above Portofino’s harbor. The entrance isn’t clearly marked, so checking a map first is a good idea. This gradual incline is paved with uneven stones rather than steps, making the climb easier for us.

Halfway up, a side trail leads toward Castello Brown. More HERE. This historic fortress once guarded the Gulf of Tigullio. Admission is either €5 or €8, depending on the season.

We continued to San Giorgio, where we enjoyed panoramic views of the harbor and coastline. The views from here are spectacular. After about 20 minutes soaking in the scenery, we descended back toward the pier to catch a tender.

Heading Back

Local security at the dock used Holland America’s facial-recognition tablets, a more secure system than traditional keycard checks. We boarded the tender at 4:08 PM but didn’t depart until 4:21. Midway back to the ship, I got a call from Volendam’s Guest Services asking if I was aboard. Apparently, they were tracking guests even before the 4:30 final tender deadline!

This shot was popular on Instagram “Kisses from Portofino”

Portofino Scenic Sail Away

The ship had advertised a “Portofino Scenic Sail Away” featuring live music from the Dam Band. Naturally, it was scheduled for 4 PM—just as many of us were still ashore! The event wrapped up about 15 minutes before our scheduled departure and 30 minutes before we actually sailed, timed so guests could head to early-dinner seatings by 5 PM.

During the Sail Away, I ran into Karen and Richard, who have been hiding small plastic ducks around the ship since we left NYC. The tradition of hiding “cruising ducks” actually began in 2018, when 11-year-old Abby Davis and her mom, Ashley, brought 50 rubber ducks aboard the Carnival Breeze and secretly placed them around the ship for fellow passengers to find. The idea quickly spread through social media and cruise fan groups. Karen and Richard brought about 600 of their own ducks for this voyage, hiding them around the ship for passengers and crew to discover—no tags, no social media, just pure fun. The crew hasn’t voiced any objections, and they seem to enjoy finding them from time to time. Fun fact: the idea of rubber ducks at sea often reminds people of the 1992 Friendly Floatees incident, when a cargo ship accidentally released 28,800 bath toys into the Pacific Ocean—though that was a scientific curiosity, not the start of the cruising-duck craze.

Karen and Richard brought 600 tiny rubber ducks to share the fun—part of a global “cruising ducks” tradition that began in 2018 aboard the Carnival Breeze

Tonight’s Entertainment

Simon Palomares

Simon Palomares returned to the stage for his second performance. He hilariously dissects modern absurdities, from internet-fueled conspiracy theories to hipster fads like almond milk and kale, while poking fun at aging with rants about cheering airplane landings. He wrapped up the show with a touching photo montage that ties his comedy and travel-filled life together.

Here is an interactive map of the points of interest for Portofino – click on the marker for more information